Oct 24, 2010. B 4815.
Oct 24, 2010. B 4815.
Silk, with a heavy, slippery unknown lining.
November 7, 2010. S2339
Coordinating quilting cottons. Contrast on yoke, stand, placket and cuff inside.
November 7, 2010. S2339
I meant to have the placket stripes both go the same direction when buttoned. Oh well.
November 7, 2010. S2339
Buttonholes and buttons done by machine. For the first time EVER, all registration marks for the collar lined up.
So close on matching the stand to yoke.
Interior detail of cuff.
All the supplies.
Major construction seams and top-stitching for the wool were done on the treadle. Great piercing power and even feeding. The seam guide also proved an invaluable tool on both machines.
A-ha moment. I added a welted pocket to the lining for a cell phone. Not even, but it worked. You can slip your hand between the buttonholes and not lose your phone.
Also made a matching scarf out of lining, with a rolled edge on the serger.
Three machines, two months, and $120 in supplies.
Dec 19, 2010
Aprons for Marshall and Chris
Stitched on the Kenmore.
Satin stitched and then trimmed.
Dec 19, 2010.
Pillow case for Amy with the fabric from Christian's pj pants.
Jan 23, 2011 Tennis Coordinates.
Copied sweatshirt and B5554.
Jan 19, 2011 B5554.
Colorblock tennis dress from knit dress pattern. Size 12 shoulders, 10 neck, 14 hips (+).
Dress was shortened from original pattern by only 4 inches.
Zipper was eliminated.
New on the left. Original on the right.
Shirt was copied using non-woven gridded pattern "paper" and an erasable marker.
Then alterations were made.
Jan 23, 2011. Look it fits- well!!
Added one inch above waist, one and a half at hem and one to sleeve (have to reduce that a tad).
Detail of French trim. Fabric is serged to raw edge and turned over itself, then stitched with a double needle. V is just tacked on the angle from behind.
Jan 17, 2011. McCall's 4519.
Stretch sateen from stash.
Nothing to write home about, but it fits.
Jan 21, 2011. B3972.
Meh. Too droopy in the linen.
Jan 22, 2011. B 5450.
Cotton something from Wal-Mart. Not bad huh?
Still think I need to figure out how to get the straps to be further out on my shoulder without changing the fit of the chest.
Orange. Tigers. Oh, I am so wearing this to RIT graduation!
Mar 27, 2011. My Kindle cover. Pattern by WhistlePig. Basic idea is good, I had to fudge the size, and did not like they way the edge was finished, so I did my own.
Also will tweak the way the closure is stitched so the stitching does not show through.
April 2, 2011. Grandma's New Kindle (3rd gen) cover. See how the velcro point of attachment does not show?
This time a credit card sized pocket, and storage bag for cords is seperate. Used buckram instead of heavy pellon because ultra-suede type fabric would not tolerate fusing.
April 19, 2011. For Aunt Theresa as requested.
This version uses med wt fusible on panels and is then filled with a sheet of 2mm thick Foamies.
The spine is stitched in the ditch and then 1/4" away. The front edge is whipstitched using buttonhole twist, instead of stitching through the foam.
May 9, 2011. I waited so long to cut this fabric... It was bought at Mood, in NYC. Then it was awful. Pattern called for fabric to be cut on bias, and no matter what I did the back neck facing rolled incorrectly.
Eventually recut the back only, on straight of grain. It still dips, but you should have seen it before. The wrinkles are from the method of photography.
May 10, 2011. Deconstructed Nike dress for Amy H. Took almost four hours to take original apart. Took less to make new one. This version is all stash/leftovers. Test garment for fit; black mesh over white lycra/nylon.
May 14, 2011. NL XXXX. Birthday purse for Grace. Only interfaced denim sections. Double interfaced bag bottom band. Nice G, huh? Done in multiple passes. Two pockets and key loop
My hands aren't as steady as the camera would like them to be. But you can see how the satin stitching overlaps to form the letter.
Topstitching, embroidery and rat-tail zipper pull are all green. Used rectangle "o"rings for something different. Turns out in Jo-Ann Fabrics the o-rings are not with the o-rings; they are with purse making supplies. Almost walked out without them.
FBA on S2614.
Presentable enough, but I don't like the way the shoulders fit.
May 15, 2011. McCall 6348; for Danica. Did not add zipper, and changed order of construction. I do not believe the fabric has sufficient recovery and will ultimately end up a wadder because of it.
Ripples from topstitching because of poor recovery. Maybe if there is negative ease when she wears it, it will be ok. Must think out the idea of facing instead of lining. Plan to use this in future for tennis dress for Amy H. Or me.
May 30, 2011. V1240.
Muslin from well aged, stashed rayon challis.
Front looks a little droopy, but this does not concern me greatly as there are two layers that go over this.
This is a concern. Blue pin is a standard bra. Red pin is the dart end. So armhole is low and seeming because the whole thing is too long in the bodice. If I raise the whole thing up to where the bra is covered the bust point will be too high.
Also perhaps some swayback going on here. Side seam seems to be tipping forward.
Collar band removed and bodice raised. Chalk mark for new stitching line.
Collar band removed and bodice raised. Chalk mark for new stitching line. So much more out of back than front.
New neck line made of homemade bias. Two single fold strips sewn together.
June 30, 2011. Amy's Bonus Garment
Amy's Bonus Garment
Oct 24, 2011 McCalls 6348 View A
Black UnderArmour. 12 graded to 16, hemmed 2".
Okay, strange angle but its about the only bland wall space in the house.
Might have to press that bodice back seam the other direction...
Detail of bust finish.
Taken to SewGreen for Ray White's Class, 2011
For neighborhood kids for Halloween, 2011
December 2011, KS 2589.
Placement is everything anymore.
December 2011, KS 2589.
January 28, 2012. B4688, view D.
Shoulder seams and sleeve seams are French. All others are finished by having been serged prior to construction. I made a straight 12 with backwaist adjustment and lengthened hem. In retrospect I should have widened the hips on such a long garment.
This jacket was constructed on a vintage Singer.
1951 Model 128-23.
The fabric had almost no weight, and the jacket is self-faced.
A strip of china silk was inserted in the placket. For the collar, silk was interfaced with fusible tricot, and backed with another layer of silk to prevent show through.
The pattern calls for the addition of a button and snaps. I made a self-covered button, and didn't use it; it flopped around on the neck. Went with nothing.
Tag hidden under mesh.
Mesh was hemmed by turning under and pinning to tissue to prevent the mesh from stretching. Double needle with green on top and white underneath.
Feb. 7, 2012. Amy's Nike 3.0
Green mesh over white UnderArmour
Under dress is cut one inch shorter than mesh.
February 9, 2012. V8379, view B.
Wrap dress with front bodice pleats. It doesn't show on the mannequin, but I stabilized the front facing so much that it stays put, while the rest of the dress sags, giving the effect that the bodice is "lifting" at the tie ends. Next time, I would only serge the facings to ensure they have some droop.
Actually, it looks better on me.
February 17, 2012.
Grandpa's "Kindle Cozy" for his tablet he says is the same size as a Kindle.
G is for Goldsmith.
Denim was washed three times so it wouldn't bleed black on everything.
Pockets are sized for hotel room keys.
S2562 Size 16, curvy fit with alteration.
Feb. 27, 2012
Yes, the fabric is shiny and crinkly, but it was a muslin.
Versus the week before of
S4366, front 16, back 14, with a back wedge of 5/8. Still it is still dipping, but is not as voluminous.
Don't you love a good selfie? Took in sides and shortened, but don't have a final image, or a number on hand.
Vogue 2859, Vintage 1935
So far I have added a lining to the bodice and raised the slit.
About to set to work on the jacket; the sleeve head was reduced and the jacket shortened by 4 inches.
Needs to have the straps attached and be hemmed, which will be a narrow 5/8 inch. Current opening will be raised about 3 inches to the pin mark you see below the camera.
May tweak the CB in for added definition. So far, so worth it.
Three weeks after its inception.
V8819 June 24, 2012
This is a size large (14-16).
Made out of slinky.
The sleeves were shortened about an inch.
Initially I tried to top stitch the seams but the slinky rippled too much, so I removed it.
"Joke's on Dale" fishing vests. Photo and fish badges created with photo sewing fabric, M embroidered felt. Purchased dog.
Detail of pajama bottom for Tennis Team Captains.
Tops were solid black tees with each captain's monogram in tennis ball fabric on the sleeve.
Andrea H.'s birthday purse 2012
Lazy Girl Designs # 127
Oct. 6, 2012
Lazy Girl Designs #127
Oct 14, 2012
Feet go through fabric and are anchored in plastic canvas.
The inside pockets are simple divided sections.
The zipper goes all the way into each corner;this is how I would carry the bag, so the zipper opens from the front.
Like Mother, like daughter.
The larger bag in back used different quilting cottons, but they are all in the same color families.
By some strange random coincidence the fabric pattern is at exactly the same point, starting at the pocket top.
October 26, 2012. New Tablet Covers for Aunt Theresa.
One is right side of fabric, one is wrong side of fabric.
Made on the the Singer 201.
December 18, 2012
Margo Bag, Lazy Girl patterns.
Used Peltex for stiffener; too stiff to maneuver under sewing machine, but produced a very crisp finish.
Also used a sport zipper which gives more RTW edge but does not turn easily.
There is a trade off between finished looks and ease of use.
Happy Birthday Aunt Theresa!
S detail wine bag, Jan 1 2013
Simplicity 2364 January 24, 2013.
Some sweater knit from the Red Tag bin at JoAnn, likely some type of acrylic. I think the cut was less than $5 and I had 3/4 yard leftover.
Cell phone detail of bust. My bra wants to keep peeking out the sides. Need to move the end of neck flap down less than 3/8" next time.
One woman's table cloth is another woman's dress.
Used FOE for neck and armhole trim. Note to self- don't cheap out on the FOE. Diaper strength does not make for a comfortable fit, though the color may match better.
Yeah! Dontcha love a $15 dress.
Totally my colors from Red Tag Sale.
April 17, 2013 Simplicity 3800 top with cap sleeve.
1/2 in added above waist, 1 1/2 in added at hemline. High hip graded up one size.
Fabric from Red Tag bin- $12, and I have a scant 1/2 yard leftover.
Phone takes verbal commands to shoot, so I can take pix of myself without my arm sticking out!!
April 19, 2013. M5424
ITY knit from Mood NYC.
Unhemmed in this photo.
2013. My year of the low cowl, last in fashion when I was in middle school, if I can recall correctly!
May 5, 2013 B5792.
Fabricmart bundle knit and rayon challis trim.
Made size XS, except for top front- used a size SM.
Self made bias trim was applied to wrong side and flipped to right side to intentionally show.
What has turned out to actually be Amy H's favorite because of the weight of the fabric.
Self-fabric trim was used on neck and armholes.
Aw, did I really do that?
Am I the only one who will notice?
NL 6097, June 15, 2013.
Ahhh, comfy. Skirt has just the right amount of ease, though it seems somewhat loose through bodice.
I don't think it requires a belt, but could dress it up with a silver belt and shoes.
See all that floppiness through the lower bodice?
That contributes to the underarm fullness.
Or did I make a mistake in shortening the facing; I doubt it as it was only 5%.
June 26, 2013. Vogue 8854.
Here it is with the neckline hanging partially open.
And a shot of the oversized hood.
Three thread serge, with SA topstitched to one side.
Stitched higher so it stays in place.
Does this add something?
Yes, sheer fabric makes a totally visible placket.
Did not go with the buttons, but did add thumbholes in sleeves.
July 8, 2013, S 5877.
Finally some Indian silk gets used.
Pretreated by hand washing and putting through the dryer.
Contrast is handmade bias using "Casa Poly satin" and the "Dread Pirate Roberts continuous bias tutorial".
Nice. The one thing I learned at the Nancy Zieman event was how to properly set piping.
I felt the fusible interfacing puckered slightly ( I believe it was weft insertion interfacing).
Made thigh length robe for Danica.
Mother's table runner.
Frogs from her stash, handmade bias trim.
Detail of trim.
Amy's bridal garter. Dyed lace. Appliqued beads and ribbon.
She asked for blue and orange, for their schools.
Margo again... July 2013
This time I used real buckram for the stiffener.
Sport zipper with ribbon pull.
Wow; this is the fourth bag I've made, plus the one Danica made me. This must be the one thing I've made the most of. Ever.
Nope, I just counted and its a tie with Amy's deconstructed Nike dress.
Buckram gives great support but is difficult to feed and a bitch to turn.
Constructed on Singer 15-91.
July 31, 2013.
What proved to version I of the QuiltSmart cell phone bag.
Note white Velcro on top, black on bottom.
Yeah I tried that hard.
August 14, 2013 M6647.
Bodice used as a basis for muslin of what will become a sari blouse. 10C cup.
Never looks good on the wrong sized mannequin.
Will also convert side zip to hook placket.
Final version in silk dupioni with poly/cotton broadcloth lining.
Hook placket has hand cast loops, back closure is bias tubes and cloth covered half ball buttons.
Wearing a sari is hard work when you're not used to it.
July 31, 2013, V7522.
Size 14, graded to a 16 hip, but down to a 12 at inside of neck.
With the assistance of Diane B. we have taken in the CF middle panel only, at each dart, and removed some width along the CB as well. She penciled in a different armscye.
Yeah, that's better. The new problem is that it is unhemmed here, and just about a perfect length. Hmmm.
Also the front only has extra fullness at the hip. One would assume that means Andrea has extra fullness in the back only.
Hem facing of satin contrast. Vent opening was finished with regular hem tape. The whole thing was lined anyway, and the lining is chained at side seams and slipped to vent.
Yes. It's true. I have whored myself out at low-rent prices.
And worse, I spent money on this- my money.
It keeps away the boredom.
But it is kick-ass, when you consider I don't own an embroidery machine.
It includes an extra-long buttonhole inside the pocket so I can thread my headset cords INSIDE, where they don't catch on the damn countertops, thank you.
August 25, 2013.
Reversible waist apron (#1) based on a design from
www.seasonedhomemaker.com, for Jenna V.
The reverse of #1.
Olivia's proudly completed dress, after 2 lessons- long though they were.
Apron #3 for Danielle P.
Do you think she will notice all the stripes lined up?
Missing photos of Apron #2 for Jenna V!
Lazy Girl Margo bag, December 17, 2013.
Purse has interior pockets in contrast, lining with key loop, dual opening zipper and is complete with solid bottom anchored with feet (metallic black finish).
But that damn tapestry fabric frays easily...
And I had to shorten a 22 inch zipper.
Whereas this tab is finished. I fear the other end may fray with use.
The Margo/Nike deconstruction tie is ended with 2 productions of the dress to this one of the bag.
And a baby wallet.
Lazy Girl Wonder Wallet, December 15, 2013.
This is my contribution to the tennis/paddle team $25 gift. I know that the materials alone cost about that much, but I enjoyed making it, and who knows, maybe I'll get a consignment out of it.
November 16, 2013.
Awesome slinky version for Amy with FOE finish for neck and armpits. Finished with chain between hem and lining. Was decommissioned as tennis clothing and moved to the regular closet by the recipient!
December 17, 2013- another Nike deconstruction score.
Silver lurex-type threads in a charcoal grey poly knit. Threads pull easily! Not sure if this was the right side or wrong side, but it was the side I liked; slightly ribbed while the other side was smooth.
Detail of self-trim.
Unfortunately this was made while under the influence of cough syrup. I mistakenly placed the join for one armscye band in the front, and one in the back. I suspect I will be the only one who cared.
Dec 28, 2013
Margo, 137%, for Dina.
There are actually pockets on the front here, that close with Velcro.
Pretty good pattern matching, huh? All three layers were cut separately so that could be effected. Had help from my trusty assistant.
I decided to use webbing to lighten the load. This bag has Peltex on the back side and buckram on the bag front (behind the pocket layer).
Interior has an added hook.
An attachable "wallet" for extra security.
The "wallet". Just a zippered baggie tethered with a ribbon and D-ring.
No pattern, just a flat inserted zippered layer atop another with boxed corners.
December 30, 2013
Housewarming gift for M&MS.
6 gallon bucket from Lowe's. Monogram is two different fonts @ two different sizes, cut out and applied with spray adhesive.
Square was masked off and two coats of Krylon bright orange matte applied. 3 foot length of bright finish chain, two jump rings and a can opener from Tuesday Morning.
I have a lot of paint and adhesive left over.
Extra adhesive residue removed with acetone and a q-tip.
Vogue 7063, view B, but cut without hidden placket; size 14 with length added in front and tapered to nothing at CB. Hips blended up to 16. 1/2" added to sleeve length. Buttonhole placement revised after bodice lengthening.
Looks good, feels good but have already lost one snap set.
The flannel is just so damn thick.
And I put the right sleeve set on so bottom lapped top- wrong.
Vogue 8854, Jan 19, 2014.
View B, no pocket.
For Amy H. who is not the size of this mannequin.
Hem is three thread serge done twice.
I put the button loop, but no button.
I did put two snaps, one backed with a button so the lightweight material won't shred apart.
I think the lower snap should remain permanently closed, but the upper may close depending on the look wanted.
I cut the facing after the bodice so I could make sure to match the stripes.
Margo one more time!
January 24, 2014 for Chris W, whose passions include music and dogs.
Bag main and and contrast have buckram, pocket has regular interfacing (non-woven, non-fusible).
Honestly I think I have reached my pinnacle.
Finally dealing with the heavier zipper correctly. Zipper is 2 inches larger than opening, and three stitches are taken after intersection of bag and lining; backtack and begin stitching again after teeth through tape. Uses the double ended zipper eliminates guessing about which way recipient will want the bag to open.
Pockets: 5 on one side, 4 on the other, with my name tag as a key ring.
Simplicity 1653, View B, January 30, 2014.
Close-up of mock wrap section.
I forgot to drop the tension when using the twin needle and some tunneling is evident. A good steam pressing took care of most of it.
For front facings, FOE was used at 95% of total length;
quartered & stretched into place.
A size 10 on a size 12 mannequin.
No gaposis, plenty of ease, and it should dry quickly.
Raglan sleeves, even!
Pull that down. I'm sure it will continue to slide around as she wears it.
The proposed map of Kyle's HS T-shirt quilt.
Apron for Linda S., January 13, 2014.
Paper map; total inches, squares, and the beginning of the interfacing, and cutting process.
Cutting mat marked for 12 X 16 squares.
Measure twice- cut once.
Checking for design balance before cutting.
Pieced to complete the square where the t-shirt was just too narrow. I only had to do this to ONE t-shirt. This one is nearly invisible
But oh, that t-shirt. The Ramones, bad boys to the end. The VERY LAST CUT TO BE MADE, and I prematurely ran the blade without double checking my registration marks.
Joey, Dee Dee and Tommy now have a very neat seam at the bottom as well; almost looks like the hem of a t-shirt.
The plan is to back with polar fleece, and I have no idea how the quilting will go on that. That means I may or may not be able to hide the seam.
My rough calculation says it took 20 hours to get to this point.
It is very square, being 54 X 60, and I hope to get it to Twin Size, 66 X 90. That would mean 8 more t's or lots of sashing.
In fact, on the fly I changed the last column to move the Penguin to what should be below Kyle's knee, since it is rather stiff, having once been the logo from a sweatshirt that I put on a t-shirt. When I did that it meant the last two column squares are the same height. Too bad, so sad.
Simplicity 2278, View B, March 10, 2014.
Made as per the envelope instructions.
First I eliminated the fusible batting in favor of a second layer of flannel.
Then the flannel was trimmed out from the overlap. When lapped the full section will lie underneath so it stays smooth.
The interlining is trimmed out of the seam allowance.
Seam allowances are clipped.
I serged all layers together, so there is a finished edge inside the slipper.
Pinned as for the overlap.
I basted these in the seam allowance.
In this garment I first stay-stitched along the seam line, so I could clip the curves open prior to trying to apply them to the booties. I never like clipping an un-stitched seam line if I can avoid it.
Beginning to apply the sole.
Start on a straight away.
Shifting the sole along the seamline.
Lining and fabric RS together.
Batting against WS of fabric.
I did not bother cutting out the pattern piece as the batting was getting trimmed away after.
Stitched, and excess batting trimmed away.
OMG it looks like a visual aid from 7th grade health class...
Curves clipped for turning to the inside.
Now it looks like a fancy mini-pad.
Opening was edge stitched on the machine.
I left the outer edge for turning and so later you can tell left from right.
Inside of the finished bootie, without the insert.
More, more, more. No interlining. No grippy. Just one layer cotton and one layer flannel. Insole does have batting.
Each have 3 feet of chain with jump rings and a church-key style bottle opener. These are not final; they need the over spray and adhesive from the stencil removed.
Jacket in progress
Margot purse for Satchels of Caring fundraiser. Fabrics were from their stash, other supplies were mine. I failed to take a picture of the completed bag and the matching Wonder Wallet made of the burgundy dragonfly fabric.
Booties for baby boy Marmo, due in May.
S1419, July 19, 2014.
Back Bodice: removed 3/8" height at CB tapered to nothing at side. Added 3/8" at side, tapered to nothing at CB, raised slope of shoulder 1/8" front and back, removed 1/4" width between dart and side seam (shorten shoulder).
Front Bodice: add 3/8" height just below bottom of armpit, reduce width 1/4 between garment side and vertical bust dart.
July 20, 2014. WELL NOW. There is some bulk from fully lining the eyelet, but for the most part IT FITS!
Can you tell which shoulder is lower? I am not going to be doing asymmetric corrections, thank you. I am still not well versed in invisible zippers. But it matches across the waistline.
It is however a little bland. Not as much of the yellow shows through as I had anticipated.
So style-wise it falls a little flat. It's better if I unbutton the keyhole and let the lining show.
And the eyelet wrinkles a lot.